Aveyron
The Departement of Aveyron is large and sparsely
populated. There is much to see – and yet the sight which
is best known to people outside France is the Millau
Viaduct.
Aveyron is crossed or bounded by three major rivers, the
Lot, the Aveyron and the Tarn, all running from east to
west. It extends from the unknown ‘Carladez’ region in the
north, to a long stretch of the scenic Tarn gorges in the
south, and from Millau in the south-east to historic
Conques in the north west.
Starting in the north, Carladez en Aveyron
“is a secret place” far from any main highways. A curious
piece of history is that in 1641, during the Thirty Years
War, the French gave it to the Duke of Monaco in return
for the transfer of his loyalty from Spain to France. The
inscriptions “Monaco” and “Grimaldi” can still be seen on
buildings in Mur de Barrez, the main town.
So often the hotels in the country-towns of the region
are disappointing, struggling to survive, and unable to
upgrade poorly equipped guest rooms. But in Mur de Barrez
we discovered The ‘Auberge de Barrez’ with
modernised rooms and a good restaurant. So we returned
there several times and felt ‘at home’. The gorges of the
Truyere are at hand and the ancient Chateau de Valon
occupies a fantastic viewpoint.
There are no Museums or Theme Parks in
Carladez. But it does have “Les Sentiers de l’Imaginere”.
Six villages have created family walks, each telling a
story, with stopping points marked by the creations of
local craftsmen. There are dragons in Carladez, created by
the blacksmiths of Murols!
South of Carladez, a long stretch of the
river Lot crosses Aveyron. Viewpoints abound.
And south of the Lot is Conques, an
isolated town which owes its prosperity to medieval
skullduggery. There was a monastery at Conques in the 9th
century, and the ambitious monks realised that they needed
a ‘relic’ in order to gain their share of pilgrims, the
tourists of the time. After some failed attempts they
targeted a shrine containing the reliquary of Sainte Foye,
stole it, and installed it in what is now the Abbey Church
of Sainte Foye. Conques then prospered as a major resting
place on the pilgrimage route from Le Puy to Santiago de
Compostela. Our room was up many stairs in the logis !
Further south, on a high ridge in a loop
in the Aveyron, is Najac, one of the ‘Plus Beaux Villages
to France. It is medieval in character and the chateau
dates from 1253. We have stayed both at a logis in the
main square, and at one at river level.
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